Let's talk about "degrowth" in fashion - 5 podcast episodes to listen to
Where to go to learn more about this topic and what it means for the fashion sector, plus a call for your input on terminology.
With my consulting hat on, I'm continuing to work this year for Textile Exchange exploring the topic of growth in the fashion, apparel and textile industry, and the role it plays in climate and nature impacts. Next step in that is developing a landscape analysis report aiming to provide a shared reference point on foundational concepts related to the topic.
In short, if fashion's sustainability efforts are being outpaced by its growth (clue: they are), then how do we approach the topic of volume reduction and what does it actually mean in reality for businesses?
One of the key challenges the report will address (among many) is terminology. What do we call it when keywords like overconsumption, overproduction, degrowth, sufficiency, decoupling et al, either aren’t fit for purpose, are too complex or are highly sensitive in terms of taking them to internal decision makers?
To get a gauge on it, Textile Exchange is gathering feedback. If you work in the sector, we invite you to complete this confidential and very brief six-question survey. (Deadline for responses: July 9, 2024).
In the meantime, needless to say by virtue of doing this work, I am knee-deep in research. Much of that to play out to come, but given how often I also get asked about this topic in my office hours sessions, I thought I would share a handful of podcasts to introduce you to more about it in the meantime.
Four highlights and one coming soon...
1/ Wardrobe Crisis: Jason Hickel on degrowth and less is more
Clare Press published this interview with leading degrowth economist Jason Hickel back in 2021 already, but it's a good one to return to for a solid understanding of the basics on this topic and how it could be applied to fashion. Jason's book, Less is More, will be familiar to anyone already exploring this space and is well worth picking up for those wanting to find out more.
2/ Planet Critical: Social tipping points with Erin Remblance
If you don't already know about Planet Critical and the work of climate corruption journalist, Rachel Donald, then put this on your list of must subscribes. Rachel brooks no quarter in getting truly to the root of what's going on. There are a lot of episodes of her pod I could point you towards, but this one with degrowth advocate Erin Remblance is particularly valuable. Erin's posts are also worth a follow.
3/ Manufactured: Crossover moments with Ken Pucker
Featuring Ken Pucker, former Timberland COO, this is a very real exploration of what needs to change in fashion. It's about how sustainability efforts have failed and why we need to let go of ideas based on infinite resources and endless growth. It doesn't give all the answers but it lays out why we need to push for systemic change and the role that policy will play within that. I found myself nodding the whole way through. Ken is another must-follow on Linkedin.
4/ Big Closets Small Planet: Dr. Jennifer Hinton Thinks Not-for-Profit Business Models Can Help Address The Problems of Fast Fashion‪‬
This is another superb listen - it explores the role of not-for-profit businesses as a potential solution, drawing on the research of Dr Jennifer Hinton, author and Post-Doctoral Fellow at The Centre for Environmental and Climate Science at University of Lund. She studies how societies relate to profit and how this relationship affects global environmental and social challenges.
5/ The Enoughness with Melanie Rickey
This is a heads-up for an entire series and not one specific episode, but I've linked to the three minute intro host Melanie Rickey - former fashion editor - has recorded sharing more about the concept. In short, enoughness is all about finding our just right in life. It's not about the 'no' word of enough, but about indeed "enoughness" and where our quest for enjoyment, contentment and satisfaction can take us. Doesn't that sound wonderful? Can we apply it to the model of fashion? Lots to unpack and to learn in all that. (Disclaimer: I've also recorded an episode with Melanie that will be coming soon, where funnily enough, I talk about the volumes of 'too much' in fashion).
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by here on Substack too - Katia is so informed, articulate and insightful and if you want a real lesson on what all this could look like in fashion, her lecture on it in Amsterdam in this post is superb.What else have you listened to? Please share in the comments.
Thank you so much for the mention Rachel. Can't wait to share your episode, coming later this summer!